Tips, Projects and Articles

As everyone knows, I seem to collect lots of "stuff". Some of it is interesting, some is odd, some is useful and some is absolutely essential. I’ll be writing occasional columns describing some of the "stuff" I’ve come across. These columns along with photos will also be available in the eKukris on the club web site www.damms.org. Hope you find this information useful.

If you regularly use an Optivisor or similar magnifying headband, this add-on is essential! One of the biggest problems with an Optivisor is getting enough light to the object you are looking at. Especially with higher magnification lenses, there is very little room between the object and the lens. Finding some awkward position that allows you to look at a figure as you paint it and still lets some light hit the figure causes all sorts of contortions. Putting this light on your Optivisor cures the problem. It is absolutely amazing how details pop out with the bright blue-white light provided by the LEDs. It’s also amazing how much you look like an extra in a cheap sci-fi movie when you’re wearing this light!

When you open the box, you find a frame that goes over the front of the Optivisor lens plate. It is about 1/8" thick and has 6 high-power LEDs to provide the light. (WARNING – DON’T look directly at the LEDs for any length of time) The frame does not interfere in any way with the lens. The kit includes 2 extra-length pins to replace the ones holding the lens in the headband. If, like me, you have an Optiloupe, the kit includes a longer machine screw to replace the one currently securing the Optiloupe. It takes less than 5 minutes to install. The weight of the frame is negligible and doesn’t make the visor droop when in use.

The power supply for the LEDs is a 2 AA cell battery box. It also has the on/off switch. A Velcro strap is provided to mount the box to the side of the visor. The weight of the battery box is noticeable, especially since it is all on one side, but it is not objectionable. By mounting the box near the hinge, it doesn’t make the visor droop and you soon forget it’s there. Batteries should last quite a while, especially compared to regular flashlights.

Using this light system is an eye-opening experience. It makes the view through an Optivisor incredibly clear. The blue-white color of the LEDs is closer to natural light than the orange of a regular flashlight bulb. Though probably not as accurate as a full-spectrum light like an Ottlite, it is still very good. The point is to use this light to place your colors, not to mix them. Unfortunately, this clear view makes every mistake glaringly obvious! Looking at a figure with the Quasar is a humbling experience. It really shows up color contrast and can help your highlighting and shading. Overall, this is a piece of "stuff" that can significantly help your painting. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! Get one from Squadron today!

-Paul Hooper

Photo-etched metal is used in many places for modeling these days. Brass detail sets for armor and aircraft are very popular additions. Even the newest Dragon 1:35 figure sets include photo-etch belt buckles, epaulets, and other small parts. The resulting fine detail really adds to the finished model. The same technology can also be used to produce tools. TechStar usually produces photo-etch for car models. They have now brought out a set of photo-etched micro-saws. A sheet of .005" stainless steel has been etched to provide 8 tools. Seven of them have very fine teeth etched into the edges. The eighth has smooth edges and looks kind of like a pointed guitar pick. It is useful for shaping putty. The saws are various shapes and sizes so they can get into various nooks and crannies on a model. A circular shape and a boomerang shape allow cutting directly into a surface for cutting panel lines or removing doors. Some of the saws have extensions that can be gripped in a hobby knife handle to provide more leverage while sawing. All of the saws have finger grips etched into them to allow handheld use. I would suggest that if you do use them in a knife handle, try and cut only on the pull. The thin blade is liable to fold if pushed too hard into a cut. The teeth are very fine and have no set to them, so they are not for heavy cutting. They are excellent for working on resin and plastic. They are a lot easier to control for removing resin pour stubs then larger saws. I don’t think I would try and cut white metal with them. An excellent set of tools. Recommended, especially for people using lots of resin parts.